Thermal Relaxing
by Barry Fletcher

The press and curl is a technique handed down from generation to generation. The pressing comb was introduced by Madame C.J. Walker in the early 1900s when there was a lot of speculation about Walker's hair-straightening system. Some black people accused her of trying to emulate European beauty standards. Walker rejected these allegations and proclaimed that her system was designed to help black people maintain and grow their hair. Walker discovered that when the hair is straight, it is easier to comb. This places less stress on the hair, reduces breakage and promotes hair growth. In addition, the straight texture provided black women with more flexibility and styling options. This ability to express themselves and broaden their beauty options gave black women a new sense of pride, and helped to raise their self-esteem.

Although, I consider the press and curl one of the safest methods used to rearrange the physical composition of the hair, it's still risky and requires careful administering. There are techniques involved in pressing that a lot of stylists seem to take for granted. State Board's examiners around the country are partly the blame because they do not require stylists to have practical training to pass the State Board exam. In most states, practitioners are not required to demonstrate a pressing comb application, which indicates that it must be a "black thing." This is the main reason that black hair stylists need to take the press and curl more seriously. It is a "black thing," and 80 percent of the people who wear the press and curl are doing it themselves in their homes. As a result, salons are missing out on a viable part of salon service.

The Pressing Comb

The pressing comb is made of metal or brass, and once it's heated is pulled through the hair to smooth its outer cuticle layer from an open to a closed position. This principle is basically the same as ironing the wrinkles out of a shirt. The same way in which heat from the iron softens the fabric so that the wrinkles give way to the weight or pressure of the iron, the pressing comb softens the hair so that the curl pattern gives way to the weight or pressure of the pressing comb. Most people still refer to this historical styling apparatus as the "pressing comb." If you want to get more technically advanced, you can call it a "thermal texturizing tool."

Heat Control

The advantage of using the pressing method is that it is fast, safe and chemical-free. The disadvantage is that you can easily scorch the hair if you don't use the proper temperature or heat control. First we need to prepare the iron for proper temperature control; this process is referred to as tempering. Heat your brass pressing comb using a stove designed to heat pressing combs or anything that will heat this brass material, i.e., an electric oven coil, a portable burner plate, or the top of the cooking stove. Allow the comb to exceed normal pressing temperature. Next, immerse the heated comb into pomade, grease or wax and allow it to simmer, then cool. This method seals in and connects the brass molecules. When molecules are not connected, it leaves a rough, uneven surface, which affects the pressing process. For example, if you were to place the iron in a stove or on top of a stove or open flame and only one area of the comb is actually being heated, the molecules are not connected. When connected, the entire iron heats up at the same degree of temperature, so you end up with an even press. The petroleum or emollient is used as filler to connect and smooth the molecules on the comb's surface. In addition, it helps to remove the comb's original wax finish or polish, which sometimes causes new irons or combs to stick and cling to the hair. Each time you heat the iron, you get a more even temperament.

Protecting The Hair

So, how do we protect the hair from the heat of the pressing comb? There are four pressing agents commonly used to protect the hair when administering a press and curl: They include petroleum, grease, wax, and light liquid oil. These products help lock the cuticles into a flattened position, and provide a smooth protective coating on the hair shaft. Avoid using wax, grease, and pomades that are too thick; they have a tendency to remain on top of the hair shaft, weigh the hair down, and take away from its natural body.

There are several methods that are used to monitor heat control when pressing and curling the hair. Some people use a white piece of paper, end wraps, paper towels, or some use toilet tissue. When you apply a pressing comb to any of the above after taking it off the stove and it browns very rapidly, you know that the iron is a little too hot to apply to the hair. Keep a damp towel accessible at all times during this process so that you can cool the iron down at will. If you have a problem controlling the heat from the pressing comb, you may want to practice on a mannequin's head as opposed to a human's head to develop your skills. If you don't have access to a mannequin, you can use a human hair wig and press it out.

Preparing For The Press

Those who press their hair regularly oftentimes experience an oil or grease buildup on the hair. In this case, you will need a good cleansing or clarifying shampoo to remove the buildup before pressing the hair. If you are preparing to have your hair pressed for the first time, you will need to treat the hair: Use a good conditioning shampoo and deep penetrating moisturizing conditioner.

Apply heat to the hair immediately following the conditioner application. A heating cap or steam machine can be used to ensure deep penetration. Deep penetration is important in this instance, since the hair will need as much moisture, strength, and protection as possible to withstand the excessive heat application from blow drying, pressing, and hot curling. If the hair still feels dry after shampooing and conditioning, add light oil to the hair and massage throughout the hair and scalp. Before blow-drying, make certain to apply a protective agent or blow-drying lotion. There are many advanced moisturizing, alcohol-free products that can be used as protective drying agents that are now available for wrapping, setting, and sculpturing.

Blow-Drying Techniques

In order to move swiftly through the blow-drying process and achieve maximum results, it is always best to adopt a systematic approach. Comb the hair out neatly and section it into four parts using the T-Shaped parting System. Begin by parting the hair down the center of the head, part across from ear to ear. Concentrate on one section at a time and use hair clips to secure the remaining sections down and away from the section that you are working on. Blow-dry the hair beginning at the roots, and work your way toward the ends. Detangle as you blow it dry. If the hair is excessively curly, use a wide-tooth comb along with a wide-tooth comb along with a wide tooth nuzzle or comb attachment. When the hair is approximately 75 percent dry, add your emollients. I suggest light oil, and then completely blow-dry the remainder of the hair in the direction of the style that's desired.

Pressing The Hair

Once the hair is completely dry, we are ready to follow up with our pressing technique. Part the hair again into four sections. Concentrate on one section at a time, and use horizontal partings to divide each section into smaller subsections beginning at the nape area. You may elect to use either a brass or electric pressing comb. The pressing comb can be purchased with or without a thermostat.

Use the teeth of the comb to stroke through and soften and detangle the hair. Press over the hair a second time using the back of the comb to exert more heat and pressure to the hair while smoothing it straight. As you continue to press each section, keep in mind that you want to press the hair according to your desired style. For example, if your hair is styled straight all over and a flat on top, press everything straight down from the head. But if you are going to wear the hair full, then you want to press the hair out to a 90-degree angle away from the head. The hair will follow your lead.

Barry Fletcher is an educator and author of Why Are Black Women Losing Their Hair? For more information call 301.336.0604 or log on to www.barryfletcher.com.