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Couture
colors
and cuts customized for multidimensional texturizing are all the
buzz. Before you rush into the dispensary to mix the color, let's
talk fundamentals and color. Professional stylists should constantly
update their knowledge of permanent hair color services and the
opportunities they present. Customizing color and cuts will result
in higher tickets, repeat business and a loyal clientele base.
The dual process of adding color to chemically treated hair requires
knowledge of products and chemical actions. Equipped with this
knowledge and technologically advanced products, your client's
color results will be shiny, healthy,
beautiful hair.
Basics
Permanent color offers the ultimate service by lightening or darkening
and toning at the same time. It offers 100 percent grey coverage
and also softens wiry hair, making it more manageable.Permanent
color should be applied two weeks after any relaxer or permanent
wave.Relaxers, permanent waves, and permanent color all contain
alkaline that causes the hair shaft to become more porous.Porous
hair absorbs with a faster penetration. For this reason, a mild
relaxer or texturizer formula is recommended.When using permanent
waves with color-treated hair use a tinted formula. Follow the
manufacturers recommended timing.
Developers
Permanent hair color is not effective until mixed with a cream
or liquid hydrogen peroxide developer. Hydrogen peroxide is made
up of two atoms of hydrogen and two atoms of oxygen (H2O2). Chemists
identify different strengths by percentage.Professional stylists
use volume to describe the strengths.The most widely used developers
are 10, 20, 30, and 40 volume.
10 volume (3 percent hydrogen peroxide) is used for depositing
only, no lift. Generally, 20 volume (6 percent hydrogen peroxide)
is recommended for one to two shades of lift. 30 volume (9 percent
hydrogen peroxide) is for two to three shades of lift.40 volume
(12 percent hydrogen peroxide) is used for three to four shades
of lift. Different formulas allow for flexibility and creativity.
Couture
Color
Globally, professional hair colorists use a universal number system
for hair color.This system is based on ten levels, which makes
identifying and choosing the correct color formula quick and easy.In
the U.S. system, the level is designated with a number from one
(black) to 10 (lightest blonde). A letter indicating the series
or base follows the number, i.e. N (natural), G (gold), M (mahogany).
In the international system, the series or base is designated
by numbers of zero to seven.These numbers are located to the right
of the decimal point.
Prior
to color selection, examine the hair and determine the texture,
porosity, natural level of hair, and percentage of grey and previous
chemical services.When choosing to lighten hair color, shade selection
should always be at least two levels lighter than the desired
shade.
To
achieve uniform color from roots to ends:
Apply color to the mid-shaft (cold shaft). Process according to
the manufacturer's directions.
Apply
color to the root area. Process according to the manufacturer's
directions. Keep in mind, hair near the scalp processes faster
due to body temperature. For resistant or grey hair, the processing
time may increase by five minutes.
Color
Maintenance
Color fades quicker when the hair is damaged, allowing the color
to be easily stripped by shampoos. Over-processing, excessive
heat styling, wrong shampoo, sun exposure and chlorine build-up
on the hair are also major contributors to color fading. Select
products especially designed for color-treated hair. The professional
Revlon Realistic® Moisture Massage Shampoo works great with
color treated hair without stripping. Products to recommend for
your clients to use at home to maintain the vibrancy of color
in between color services are Creme of Natureâ Color Care
Shampoo and Color Care Conditioner, which contain jojoba oil and
soybean oil that condition and provide enduring shine.
Special
Cases
If grey hair is present or if red or mahogany shades are used,
increase processing time by five minutes. When deepening grey
hair use a 10 volume developer. If grey hair is very coarse or
extremely resistant, dampen the hair with water before applying
tint. Always strand test as a guide.
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